Ceramides And Drying Oils

abioni

Well-Known Member
I have been doing research on Ceramide oils as I want to change from Wheat Germ oil (low shelf life and doesn't do well with heat) to another Ceramide rich oil. I found this thread on LHC http://forums.longhaircommunity.com/showthread.php?t=54872, listing the percentage of Ceramides in some oils. I don't know where the person got the list from but here it is:

Safflower oil 78%
Grape seed oil 73%
Poppyseed oil 70%
Sunflower oil 68%
Hemp oil 60%
Corn oil 59%
Wheat germ oil 55%
Cottonseed oil 54%
Soybean oil 51%
Walnut oil 51%
Sesame oil 45%
Rice bran oil 39%
Pistachio oil 32.7%
Peanut oil 32% [17]
Canola oil 21%
Egg yolk 16%
Linseed oil 15%
Lard 10%
Olive oil 10%
Palm oil 10%
Cocoa butter 3%
Macadamia oil 2%
Butter 2%
Coconut oil 2%

Reading further I discovered some of oils can be drying and hard to wash off after long-term use.

Below are the links to the info on drying oils.


http://ktanihairsense.blogspot.com/2011/12/understanding-drying-capacity-of-oils.html

"Oils can be defined by their drying capacity as: drying, semi-drying and non-drying oils. These definitions can help you choose which kind of oil is best suited for your hair care routine.

What does this mean?

Here is some information on oils by Transport Information Service on the definitions.

What does this have to do with hair care?

Quite a lot actually. While some oils can be difficult to remove from the hair because of the amounts used on the hair at one time or the method used (shampoo versus conditioner only), semi-drying and drying oils present more of a problem (semi-drying oils are not too much of a problem but they can still cause build-up), due to their chemistry and reaction to oxygen.

In the case of drying oils, the information on the cleaning of the oil tanks matches the problem that that you can have using a drying oil frequently on your hair, the difficulty (need to repeatedly clarify the hair) to remove it. Drying oils become resinous when they are exposed to oxygen.

Drying oils polymerize. That applies to any drying oil.

Does this mean that drying oils should never be used on hair? No. You do need to know what you are dealing with, and the consequences of overusing such oils, build-up that can be problematic, leading to dry, brittle hair if not removed. Drying oils are best used sparingly, and less often than other oils on hair, to avoid problems.

Examples of drying oils: borage oil, evening primrose oil, grapeseed oil, hemp seed oil, linseed (flax oil), pine tar oil, poppy seed oil, red raspberry seed oil, rosehip oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil

Examples of semi-drying oils: corn oil, cottonseed oil, sesame oil

Examples of non-drying oils: argan oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, mineral oil, olive oil

The iodine value of an oil determines how the oil is defined and some sources differ as to the cut off point between the numbers for semi-drying and drying oils. You can look up an oil and its iodine value, or look up an oil by one of the three definitions.

If an oil has an iodine value of 130-190 or higher, it is a drying oil.

Here is an extensive list. Just click on iodine value."



More info on drying oils http://www.tis-gdv.de/tis_e/misc/trocknun.htm

"
Drying capacity of oils

Fats and fatty oils may dry under the action of atmospheric oxygen, with polyunsaturated fatty acids (e.g. linoleic glycerides) absorbing oxygen and peroxides (e.g. linoxyn) forming a tough, resinified mass. This phenomenon is of particular significance during cargo handling and tank cleaning. Depending on their iodine value, fats and fatty oils are divided as follows in accordance with their drying capacity:

Nondrying oils: Iodine values are below 100. Contact with oxygen does not cause any appreciable drying. Tanks are easy to clean.

Semidrying oils: Iodine values range from 100 - 130. These oils dry within acceptable limits, making tank cleaning only slightly more difficult.

Drying oils: Drying oils have iodine values ranging from 130 - 190. They dry rapidly on contact with atmospheric oxygen. Considerable cargo residues are left on tank walls by rapid drying-on of the oils; these have to be scraped off, making tank cleaning markedly more difficult and causing considerable weight losses.
"

List of oils based on iodine value: http://soapcalc.net/calc/OilList.asp
 

Theresamonet

Well-Known Member
So drying since they're more likely to build up and form an occlusive film on the hair. But not drying as in they actually suck moisture (water) from the hair... Good to know that some oils can end up behaving similarly to silicones, and a reminder to make sure we clarify occasionally if we are using one high in iodine.
 

Sharpened

A fleck on His Sword
How did I miss this thread? So, iodine is the main factor in the film certain oils leave on the hair?

I looked at the first link and searched under iodine for castor oil, not there. It had horse oil and rabbit fat. Uh, no, lol. How you have those and not castor oil? I know from personal use it is a drying oil.

The ones hair hates are semi- and non-drying. Some of the light (viscosity) drying ones do nothing for me.
 

Sharpened

A fleck on His Sword
Very interesting ... thanks for posting!
I wonder where Castor Oil falls on this list of drying/non-drying oils ... and Shea Butter?
I just a little digging and found castor at 82-90, shea butter at 45-65, and shea oil at 75-90 on this site: http://thesoapdish.com/oil-properties-chart.htm

The ricinoleic acid only found in castor oil is considered conditioning. I guess that is why my hair likes it.
 

rileypak

Wash Week™ Queen
Looking back at the categories, my hair loves the drying oils (grapeseed, hempseed, walnut, safflower, sunflower, wheat germ):lachen:

I don't use oil by itself these days though because it takes me forever to get through and will go rancid before I finish.
 

theRaven

Well-Known Member
Fascinating. I've had my hair all out for a few days in a prolonged wash n go. I just finished twisting my hair with water from a spray bottle and grape seed oil. I'm now wondering if it was the gel from my wash n go, a stretched wash n go, or the grape seed oil as to why my hair felt dry. Will find out tomorrow. But for now I use grape seed oil for the hair growth mix.
 

MzSwift

Well-Known Member
Good info and very good convo!
I used that same list from LHC to determine which ceramide oils I wanted to use back in 2011 (I believe) when I was natural. I started using an EVOO/Grapeseed/safflower oil mix that I still use today. Sometimes it's just grapeseed+EVOO. I'm not sure that I've experienced any adverse effects. I rarely clarify (maybe once every 1-2 yrs :blush2:) and my hair is not fond of hard protein txs. But it does like lite protein txs regularly (every 1-2 weeks).

I've tried to use oils in lieu of lotion and both EVOO and grapeseed left me with alligator skin :( I tried again last year using sweet almond oil and my skin loves it! It soaks in very well and does not leave my skin greasy nor dry looking!
 

snoop

Well-Known Member
Thanks for bumping this thread. I was following it, but had forgotten about this information.

My go-to these days, is beef tallow in place of carrier oils. According to soap calc, beef tallow is 45 in the iodine list, whiz dh would make it non-drying. Which is good to know, since I also haven't clarified in a while.
 
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