AngieK
New Member
I was going through the archives (old posts) a few weeks ago, and I noticed several recurring subjects that were discussed over and over again. In particular, I noticed many questions that pertained to moisture, dry hair, and dry scalp. So I started wondering why certain people were having chronic dry hair problems, while others did not. So I did a little research about hair and moisture and I learned some interesting things. Some info I already knew, but there was a lot that I did not know. Anyway, I just thought I would share some of it with you, because it really helped me to understand why some products and methods work better than others. Keep in mind that everyone's hair is unique and may be at different levels of damage, etc. The info that I am going to share is GENERAL and does not address specific hair types, degrees of porosity, etc.
FIRST THINGS FIRST
Before we can even think about the "best products" to use, we have to consider the basics. First and foremost, we have to consider our diets. A <font color="red">healthy diet</font> (from whole foods) will contribute to well nourished blood, optimal follicle activity, and healthy skin (which includes our scalps). Vitamins will not substitute for a healthy diet. Instead, we should look at vitamins as "partners" with our diets. They can make up for deficiencies, improve antioxidant levels, and enhance our overall nutrition and well being. In other words, they can fill in the gaps that may exist from our diets - but not replace a healthy diet.
Along with a healthy diet, we have to <font color="red">keep our bodies adequately hydrated (with water)</font>. We all know about the "eight glasses per day" protocol. However, you may actually need more if you are exercising regularly, taking medications that have a diuretic effect, or if you are participating in work activities that cause you to sweat and lose water. Optimal water intake also helps to keep our systems flushed of toxins, which provides direct benefits to our skin and hair. Experts say that most of us suffer from mild dehydration, which can be easily corrected by increased fluid intake. However, if dehydration goes unchecked (and becomes moderate or severe), it can actually affect our blood volume and pressure. Once it reaches this point, serious problems can occur.
Now to link diet, nutrition, and hydration to our discussion of hair, I want to include some information about skin and scalp health. Sebum is a fatty secretion that comes from the sebaceous glands, and it is one of the two constituents of the lipid film present on the skin surface. It is made from fatty acids and other subtances in the blood, which are provided by the food that we eat. The quality of the blood determines both the quality and the quantity of the sebum that is produced. It is secreted through the sebaceous ducts into the hair follicles. From there, it ascends to the skin surface. Why is it important to know this? Well, sebum protects the skin by reducing the evaporation of water form the skin. So, if we don't have a healthy diet, our sebum production can be affected. Other things that can affect our sebum protection is cold dry weather and topicial chemicals (relaxers, coloring, etc.). Regarding hydration as it was discussed above, <font color="red">skin needs to contain the right moisture balance in order to be at its best</font>. This moisture is is brought to the skin by the blood supply. Low moisture levels can cause skin to be dry with a tendency to flake. So, if you are suffering from chronic dry scalp, maybe you should consider your diet and/or hydration level as possible culprits.
(Interesting fact: Cholesterol is a component of sebum, which also aids in the healing of the skin tissue and prevents foreign organisms from infecting the skin.)
CREATE THE OPTIMAL ENVIRONMENT
Here I want to talk about things that we can do to create the optimal "hair environment." In order for hair to be healthy, we have to <font color="red">start with a healthy clean scalp</font>. Of course, the way to achieve this is through shampooing. HOWEVER, there are several things to consider when choosing a shampoo. We have to consider the type of shampoo to use, as well as how often we should shampoo.
We should strive to <font color="red">select a shampoo that has cleansers that are both mild AND effective</font>. The shampoo should be kind to the scalp and do a good job of lifting oil, styling products, mineral deposits and dirt from the hair. If a shampoo is mild for the scalp, but ineffective at removing oils, dirt and styling products, you could end up with problem hair caused by accumulated build-up (which contributes to dry hair). On the other hand, if we use a shampoo that is great at removing the things that cause build-up, but also strips the scalp of the natural lipid barrier, then we will end up with dry a scalp problem (and probably dry hair). So the key is to do our research and find a shampoo that is formulated with soaps or detergents that have been proven to be mild but effective. If you are unsure about the ingredients, you can you can oftentimes tell by the feel of your hair after it has been washed - - it should not feel "squeaky clean, " nor should your scalp feel tight after you your hair has dried (in the same way that the skin on your body can feel tight after bathing with a harsh soap).
Another thing to consider is the infamous <font color="red">Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) Rinse</font>. How does this contribute to moisturized hair? Apple cider vinegar (diluted) is used by many as a natural way to rinse away unwanted residue from soaps and detergents. It is also used to adjust the pH of the scalp and hair after shampooing. However, one of the most important things to know about apple cider vinegar is the fact that it contains malic acid. Malic acid is reported to aid the removal of dead skin cells. In the same way that alpha hydroxy acids can help keep our facial skin exfoliated and more receptive to moisture, malic acid does the same thing for our scalps. In order to get the full benfit of the natural acids, you should consider using an organic ACV that has not been distilled. Some studies have shown that some of the natural benefits of ACV are destroyed during the distillation process.
How often should we wash our hair? I would say that it is a matter of personal preference. HOWEVER, keep in mind that one of the ways we rid our bodies of waste and toxins is through the skin via sweat. Hair can actually trap sweat and bacteria so we have to be sure to wash our hair regularly. It is not suggested that you go any longer than 7 days - - nor is it suggested that you wash your hair every day. From what I have read, a few times per week is adequate.
THE BALANCING ACT
Now that we have a healthy scalp, and healthy clean hair that is ready to accept moisture, what should we do next? The answer seems obvious, but this is where I think most of us go wrong. The next step is to <font color="red">apply a good conditioner that will restore moisture and keep our hair protected from the elements</font>. But what is meant by a "good" conditioner?
Here is what I found out. Before we even think about selecting a conditioner, we need to acknowledge something: In order for hair to be in the best condition, we need to strike a balance between optimal moisture content, and the correct balance of protein and natural oil <font color="red">(moisture + protein + oil)</font>. Okay, so water provides moisture, and our sebum is adequate, so why are some still having problems with dryness? The answer is simple, something is missing from the moisture + protein + oil equation. Through trial and error, many of us have experienced some of the problems that can occur when things are not balanced.
Here are some examples:
<ul type="square">[*]Too much protein and oil, but no moisture = oily hair that becomes dry and brittle (despite the oil)
[*]Too much emphasis on moisture and perhaps oil, but no protein = hair that is too soft and so elastic that it cannot stand up to wet combing; it stretches and then snaps.
[*]Emphasis on protein and moisture, but no oil = hair looks dull and tends to get dryer as the week goes on (due to evaporation of moisture from the hair)
[/list]
So, considering the optimal balance, here is what we can do. We should look for conditioning products that are balanced with moisture/protein/oil (or a combination of products). Additionally, a good conditioner should have ingedients that will help us to KEEP moisture. There are two types of conditioning ingredients that can help: <font color="red">Water-binding agents</font> and <font color="red">humectants</font>. Water binding agents are ingredients that help the hair to retain water. Humectants are ingredients that can actually attract water to the hair shaft and keep it there. I compiled a list of ingredients that are either humectants, water-binding agents, or both:
Glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyluronate, mucopolysaccharides, sodium PCA, collagen elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, panthenol, phospholipids, antioxidants, glycosphingolipids, glycogen, honey.
You will notice that protein is listed as a water binding agent. Proteins will coat the hair and fill in damaged areas of the hair. As a result, porosity is improved - - resulting in better water retention. Highly porous hair cannot absorb or retain water, thus making it chronically dry.
Now, that we know about moisture retention, and protein content, lets talk about oil. We read about emollients on the back of many conditioner containers. Emollients are simply any substances that prevent water loss. For our purposes, natural oils can perform this function. If we have adequate sebum production, then our scalps should be in pretty good shape.
During conditioning, we benefit from the fatty acids and fatty alcohols that are in the formulation. These are lipid lubricants and emollients that are not as greasy as plant, vegetable or mineral oil. Examples of these ingredients include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, triglycerides, myristyl alcohol, caprylic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.
Other emollients include plant oils, lanolin, vegetable oils, castor oil, butters, etc. When applied to the hair, they leave a protective barrier that will prevent dehydration (and some can bind moisture). They are more oily than fatty acids, but they can be used moderately with great results. Many of us use olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, or jojoba oil (which is not actually an oil).
<font color="red">The Key: Moisture, Retention, and Protection</font>
FINAL WORDS
So there you have it. This informaiton has helped me tremendously. After I took a look at my collection of products, I realized that there were only a select few that actually stood up to the research AND were giving me consistent results. Hopefully, some of this info will help some of you to understand why some products work better than others. Or maybe, it will simply convince you to eat better or to drink more water.
---------------------------------------------------
Let me know if any of you want a list of resources (feel free to PM me). Some of the info that I used was from articles and research that I collected from the internet over the past few years, and I cannot find the original source. However, I will definitely provide what I have.
FIRST THINGS FIRST
Before we can even think about the "best products" to use, we have to consider the basics. First and foremost, we have to consider our diets. A <font color="red">healthy diet</font> (from whole foods) will contribute to well nourished blood, optimal follicle activity, and healthy skin (which includes our scalps). Vitamins will not substitute for a healthy diet. Instead, we should look at vitamins as "partners" with our diets. They can make up for deficiencies, improve antioxidant levels, and enhance our overall nutrition and well being. In other words, they can fill in the gaps that may exist from our diets - but not replace a healthy diet.
Along with a healthy diet, we have to <font color="red">keep our bodies adequately hydrated (with water)</font>. We all know about the "eight glasses per day" protocol. However, you may actually need more if you are exercising regularly, taking medications that have a diuretic effect, or if you are participating in work activities that cause you to sweat and lose water. Optimal water intake also helps to keep our systems flushed of toxins, which provides direct benefits to our skin and hair. Experts say that most of us suffer from mild dehydration, which can be easily corrected by increased fluid intake. However, if dehydration goes unchecked (and becomes moderate or severe), it can actually affect our blood volume and pressure. Once it reaches this point, serious problems can occur.
Now to link diet, nutrition, and hydration to our discussion of hair, I want to include some information about skin and scalp health. Sebum is a fatty secretion that comes from the sebaceous glands, and it is one of the two constituents of the lipid film present on the skin surface. It is made from fatty acids and other subtances in the blood, which are provided by the food that we eat. The quality of the blood determines both the quality and the quantity of the sebum that is produced. It is secreted through the sebaceous ducts into the hair follicles. From there, it ascends to the skin surface. Why is it important to know this? Well, sebum protects the skin by reducing the evaporation of water form the skin. So, if we don't have a healthy diet, our sebum production can be affected. Other things that can affect our sebum protection is cold dry weather and topicial chemicals (relaxers, coloring, etc.). Regarding hydration as it was discussed above, <font color="red">skin needs to contain the right moisture balance in order to be at its best</font>. This moisture is is brought to the skin by the blood supply. Low moisture levels can cause skin to be dry with a tendency to flake. So, if you are suffering from chronic dry scalp, maybe you should consider your diet and/or hydration level as possible culprits.
(Interesting fact: Cholesterol is a component of sebum, which also aids in the healing of the skin tissue and prevents foreign organisms from infecting the skin.)
CREATE THE OPTIMAL ENVIRONMENT
Here I want to talk about things that we can do to create the optimal "hair environment." In order for hair to be healthy, we have to <font color="red">start with a healthy clean scalp</font>. Of course, the way to achieve this is through shampooing. HOWEVER, there are several things to consider when choosing a shampoo. We have to consider the type of shampoo to use, as well as how often we should shampoo.
We should strive to <font color="red">select a shampoo that has cleansers that are both mild AND effective</font>. The shampoo should be kind to the scalp and do a good job of lifting oil, styling products, mineral deposits and dirt from the hair. If a shampoo is mild for the scalp, but ineffective at removing oils, dirt and styling products, you could end up with problem hair caused by accumulated build-up (which contributes to dry hair). On the other hand, if we use a shampoo that is great at removing the things that cause build-up, but also strips the scalp of the natural lipid barrier, then we will end up with dry a scalp problem (and probably dry hair). So the key is to do our research and find a shampoo that is formulated with soaps or detergents that have been proven to be mild but effective. If you are unsure about the ingredients, you can you can oftentimes tell by the feel of your hair after it has been washed - - it should not feel "squeaky clean, " nor should your scalp feel tight after you your hair has dried (in the same way that the skin on your body can feel tight after bathing with a harsh soap).
Another thing to consider is the infamous <font color="red">Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) Rinse</font>. How does this contribute to moisturized hair? Apple cider vinegar (diluted) is used by many as a natural way to rinse away unwanted residue from soaps and detergents. It is also used to adjust the pH of the scalp and hair after shampooing. However, one of the most important things to know about apple cider vinegar is the fact that it contains malic acid. Malic acid is reported to aid the removal of dead skin cells. In the same way that alpha hydroxy acids can help keep our facial skin exfoliated and more receptive to moisture, malic acid does the same thing for our scalps. In order to get the full benfit of the natural acids, you should consider using an organic ACV that has not been distilled. Some studies have shown that some of the natural benefits of ACV are destroyed during the distillation process.
How often should we wash our hair? I would say that it is a matter of personal preference. HOWEVER, keep in mind that one of the ways we rid our bodies of waste and toxins is through the skin via sweat. Hair can actually trap sweat and bacteria so we have to be sure to wash our hair regularly. It is not suggested that you go any longer than 7 days - - nor is it suggested that you wash your hair every day. From what I have read, a few times per week is adequate.
THE BALANCING ACT
Now that we have a healthy scalp, and healthy clean hair that is ready to accept moisture, what should we do next? The answer seems obvious, but this is where I think most of us go wrong. The next step is to <font color="red">apply a good conditioner that will restore moisture and keep our hair protected from the elements</font>. But what is meant by a "good" conditioner?
Here is what I found out. Before we even think about selecting a conditioner, we need to acknowledge something: In order for hair to be in the best condition, we need to strike a balance between optimal moisture content, and the correct balance of protein and natural oil <font color="red">(moisture + protein + oil)</font>. Okay, so water provides moisture, and our sebum is adequate, so why are some still having problems with dryness? The answer is simple, something is missing from the moisture + protein + oil equation. Through trial and error, many of us have experienced some of the problems that can occur when things are not balanced.
Here are some examples:
<ul type="square">[*]Too much protein and oil, but no moisture = oily hair that becomes dry and brittle (despite the oil)
[*]Too much emphasis on moisture and perhaps oil, but no protein = hair that is too soft and so elastic that it cannot stand up to wet combing; it stretches and then snaps.
[*]Emphasis on protein and moisture, but no oil = hair looks dull and tends to get dryer as the week goes on (due to evaporation of moisture from the hair)
[/list]
So, considering the optimal balance, here is what we can do. We should look for conditioning products that are balanced with moisture/protein/oil (or a combination of products). Additionally, a good conditioner should have ingedients that will help us to KEEP moisture. There are two types of conditioning ingredients that can help: <font color="red">Water-binding agents</font> and <font color="red">humectants</font>. Water binding agents are ingredients that help the hair to retain water. Humectants are ingredients that can actually attract water to the hair shaft and keep it there. I compiled a list of ingredients that are either humectants, water-binding agents, or both:
Glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyluronate, mucopolysaccharides, sodium PCA, collagen elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, panthenol, phospholipids, antioxidants, glycosphingolipids, glycogen, honey.
You will notice that protein is listed as a water binding agent. Proteins will coat the hair and fill in damaged areas of the hair. As a result, porosity is improved - - resulting in better water retention. Highly porous hair cannot absorb or retain water, thus making it chronically dry.
Now, that we know about moisture retention, and protein content, lets talk about oil. We read about emollients on the back of many conditioner containers. Emollients are simply any substances that prevent water loss. For our purposes, natural oils can perform this function. If we have adequate sebum production, then our scalps should be in pretty good shape.
During conditioning, we benefit from the fatty acids and fatty alcohols that are in the formulation. These are lipid lubricants and emollients that are not as greasy as plant, vegetable or mineral oil. Examples of these ingredients include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, triglycerides, myristyl alcohol, caprylic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.
Other emollients include plant oils, lanolin, vegetable oils, castor oil, butters, etc. When applied to the hair, they leave a protective barrier that will prevent dehydration (and some can bind moisture). They are more oily than fatty acids, but they can be used moderately with great results. Many of us use olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, or jojoba oil (which is not actually an oil).
<font color="red">The Key: Moisture, Retention, and Protection</font>
FINAL WORDS
So there you have it. This informaiton has helped me tremendously. After I took a look at my collection of products, I realized that there were only a select few that actually stood up to the research AND were giving me consistent results. Hopefully, some of this info will help some of you to understand why some products work better than others. Or maybe, it will simply convince you to eat better or to drink more water.
---------------------------------------------------
Let me know if any of you want a list of resources (feel free to PM me). Some of the info that I used was from articles and research that I collected from the internet over the past few years, and I cannot find the original source. However, I will definitely provide what I have.
