SouthernGirl's Self-Relax Tips

SouthernGirl

New Member
I have compiled my Self-Relaxing Steps for those that may need a little help to started relaxing your own hair. I have done my own for 11 years (a stylist did it when my hair was virgin, and I did my own every time thereafter)!

***Note***
I am not a licensed cosmetologist, nor am I officially qualified to give instructions on how best to relax one's hair. The instructions listed below are the steps I've been using for years on my own hair, and they work for me!
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What You'll Need (feel free to substitute the relaxer for your personal favorite):
-Vitale Lye Relaxer (Regular)
-Vitale Postive Conditioner
-Vitale Neutralizing Conditioner
-Relaxer Applicator
-Vaseline
-Timer/Clock
-Your Favorite Shampoo/Conditioner
-Leave-in Conditioner
-(4)Hair clips

*Before starting, make sure your scalp hasn't been irritated (sores, scratching, washing, etc).

1) Apply Vaseline along entire hairline (front & back)
2) Section hair into 4 parts (2 front, 2 back)
3) Secure 3 sections with clips
4) Start either in the front or the back, depending on where you see the most new growth
5) If starting in back, make a part a couple of inches above nape area if this area is thinning or if hair is really fine like mine. You can also start at the top of the section near the center of your head if you have more new growth in that area
6) Take a comb and make a part with about a 1/2" or less of hair
7) With applicator brush (or fingers if wearing gloves), apply relaxer to new growth, avoiding scalp and relaxed hair, as not to overlap
8) Make another part and do the same thing.
9) Complete these steps until the entire section is done, then take down the other section in back and repeat steps #6-8. Remember, don't apply relaxer to nape unless your hair is really coarse here. This area will have had the relaxer on for the longest time so be careful!!
10) Once the two back sections are complete, do the same thing for the front two sections, saving the hairline for last (unless your hair is very coarse here). Leaving the relaxer on in this area for too long can lead to thinning edges and breakage so be careful!!! I like to start at the center of the head for all 4 sections because that's where my coarsest new growth appears
11) Once you have completed the last 2 sections, go back and add relaxer to the nape area, then the rest of the hairline in front
12) It is not necessary to smooth the hair if you don't want to, unless you have areas that are really coarse. You'll want to avoid overlapping as much as possible and smoothing can lead to this:(
13) The application of the relaxer should be very quick. Do this like you're in a race because you don't want to over or under-process. Just be sure to be cautious even though you're moving fast
14) Since the area you started will be ready to rinse out first due to longer processing time, you might want to secure the other two sections with clips for now
15) I do my rinse-outs either w/the kitchen sink, or standing over the tub only because my shower water pressure is too low, and it's easier to focus on certain sections of my hair. You'll want to have MAXIMUM water pressure to rinse out the relaxer because not rinsing well leads to breakage over time!!!
16) Rinse out the relaxer in the back very well. Make sure it is comepletley out. This is tough, but try not to let the water touch the two sections that are pinned up
17) Once the back is rinsed out, if you need to wait a couple more minutes before rinsing out the front, do so. Both sections need the entire 15 or 20 minute MAX processing time
18) Rinse the last two sections in the order in which the relaxer was applied
19) Once the hair is thoroghly rinsed, saturate hair w/Vital Positive Conditioner, cover w/plastic cap, and wait 5 minutes
20) After 5 minutes, remove the cap, and notice how silky your hair is :clap: You may decide to detangle a bit here, but it's optional. Don't worry, if you're using the tub or sink, you won't have issues detangling later. Your hair will be left silky smooth after using this stuff.
21) Rinse all of conditioner out of hair
22) Next Shampoo w/Vitale Neutralizing shampoo, rinse, and repeat to make sure all of the relaxer is out. I generally walk around during the second shampoo just to be double sure it's all gone!
23) Next, use your favorite shampoo and conditioner as you normally would for the final washing.
24) You may also want to use a deep conditioner since you just performed a chemical service. I use LeKair Cholesterol conditioner w/a plastic cap but no heat for 45 minutes, then rinse.
25) After shampooing/conditioning, blot with towel (I never twist a towel around my head) for a few seconds
26) Now you're ready to comb out!!
27) Apply a leave-in conditioner
28) Gently comb out w/a wide-toothed comb. Remember- ALWAYS treat your hair like silk when you're combing, especially when wet and tangled. I part my hair down the middle, section off again, then comb each of the four section (like when applying the relaxer).
29) If you can, just let it air-dry. This is the best time to air-dry because your hair is straight. It's also the best time to trim/dust.
30) Now you're ready for those cute pin curls, or just pull back into a loose bun!!!

I hope the steps above will help you do your own relaxers. Here are a few final important points to remember:

-Try to stretch out your relaxer as long as possible. 3 months or more is great if you can handle it without excessive breakage/shedding
-Avoid putting relaxer directly onto the scalp
-It's okay to use your fingers to apply relaxer, just be sure to wear tight-fitting gloves or you will stain your fingers and nails
-Make sure you have enough relaxer for the whole head! I use 1/2 a jar each time. Vitale comes pre-mixed so you can save the rest till next time!
-NEVER run relaxer through the entire length of your hair! I'll be honest, I have done this to correct an underprocessed area once, and it was fine b/c I left it on for 5 minutes, but this is an absolute no no!! Doing it right when you relax everytime will alleviate underprocessed parts.
-All these product are found at Sally and most Beauty Supply Stores
-Be sure to set your timer or have a clock nearby
-Once each section of the relaxer is applied, you may want to look at the back w/a hand mirror to make sure you didn't miss any spots. You'll be an expert in no time!
-Be sure to rinse all of the relaxer out before you put on the Positive Conditioner
-Finally, have fun! I'm convinced that NO ONE will give your hair as much TLC as you will so become an expert

Good luck, and feel free to write if you have questions. let me know how it goes!!

SG
 

KAddy

New Member
THANKS GIRLIE!
 

vikkisecret

Nubian Girl
Hey SG I just wanted to say thank you and that your instructions will help me out very much for when I do my own relaxing in January with Mizani and not the box perms that I'm so used to using.
 

Needmyhairtogrow

New Member
SG this was a great tip. I am so lazy in doing my perms I ask my friends to do them. I use to do them in high school, but stopped because I like it when someone plays in my hair. I've only once had it done professionally and regret the price. So thanks and I've always put it on the scalp and brush the new growth now I'll just try the newgrowth and advice my friends to do the same. I know for a fact that I will not let my friend who did it this past Saturday do it becuase I felt like for the first time I was tender headed by how rough she was being. thanks for the tip.
 

MelsWifey

Hair Fanatic
Thanks SG!!!

I'm am venturing off into the self-relaxing realm in January, so for me this post was right on time ;).

Just was curious whether you smoothed your relaxer or not? I know you mentioned that that step wasn't necessary for all, but I'm dying to know whether you do or not :D. TIA
 

SouthernGirl

New Member
Thanks Everyone! :wave:

Melswifey, I am definitely a smoother! I read somewhere that it's not necessary so I posted that for inexperienced do-it-youselfers. I figured that would help to minimize overlapping.

I don't smooth it until just before I get ready to rinse it out, one section at a time.

SG
 

Survive4

Member
Baby!!! :notworthy: I'm headed to the BSS (if its open today) on my way home from work. :driver: I might just work up the nerve to do this this weekend. Question for SG or anyone who self-relaxes. How do you utlize your mirrors to see the back of your head? Or do you just work by feel or are you just an old pro by now? I'm worried about overlap. Thanks
 

Leslie_C

Well-Known Member
SG,
Im at the point where I think self relaxing is the way to go...like u say no one can care for your hair like u can....it seems like even when I go to the salon it ends up either over or underprocessed so I might as well do it myself. Not to mention I really cant afford the salon these days since Im in school and only work part time.

I plan to practice a few times with cholesterol conditioner (its thick and creamy like a relaxer and cant hurt my hair!lol)

Have u always used the vitale relaxer? Also since its lye are there any extra precautions that need to be taken, like dont u have to base your hair or something...? when I used to get home perms they were no lye but I switched to lye that past year or so when I went to the salon.

by the way, do we not have the feature to toggle(keep as a fave) posts anymore?
 

kammie

Member
These directions are awesome, but can I add a couple of suggestions based on my "experience" (read: mishaps)?

1. Use some sort of protectant on previously relaxed hair: conditioner, grease, neutralizing shampoo/ conditioner. I can't avoid overlapping at least a bit, and I've been self relaxing for 15 years. I currently use Profective Breakfree, which is designed for this purpose.

2. Consider relaxing in halves. I tend to overprocess the starting quadrant and underprocess the ending one. The longer my hair gets and the longer I stretch touch ups, the longer the application time is. Next time, I plan to relax the front first, neutralize, then do the back.
Hope this helps!
 

SherryLove

Active Member
southerng -- that was so cool of you to take the time to do this... i am going to print it out and share it with a couple of ladies i know.... thanks.....
 

onepraying

Healthy Hair Quest..
Hey ladies!

I have a question. Since I underprocessed, how long should I really wait until I touch up again? Someone suggested 4 weeks ATLEAST. However, my hair isn't completely straight and it isn't super curly, I guess kinda texturized. I may be able to go the whole 13 weeks(March 20), yet I'm a little afraid of breakage. Should I go ahead and touch up again at 4 wks and then again at 9 wks after that to get back on track? I'm trying to only relax 4x a year. This underprocess had me really shook at first. I'm in the grow out challenge and I just don't want anything freaky happening, especially if it is preventable.

Thanks alot!

HHG-


~op~
 

SouthernGirl

New Member
Mrry Christmas Everyone!!!

Thanks so much for all the positive feedback!!

:) Survive4: I don't always use a hand mirror, but I used to at first. I would do one complete section, then look at the back to make sure it was on properly, and sometimes mid-way thru the section. After a while, you get used to it and don't need a mirror. I rarely use one now.

:) Leslie: I think you should definitely give it a try, and I do believe that practicing with the conditioner is a great idea! :up: I've always used Vitale, except for a period of a few years. I got my first perm and the stylist used Vitale (in '92). Since I was in college, I did my own perms but I used no-lye (wasn't eductated about lye-vs no-lye back then). A great way to save money!! I used no-lye for about 3 years. Then after reading Andre Talks Hair, I switched back to Vitale since it contained lye and have been using it ever since. I definitely think you should base your scalp. I always lined my hairline and nape w/vaseline, but now that I'm using oils and grease on my scalp everday, my scalp is based by default, so it is being protected when the relaxer goes on.

:) Kammie: I agree w/your suggestions, and I really want to try the "halves" method. I'm just wondering how to secure the hair when not in use, and if a little water gets on it while rinsing the other side, will it hurt it? I'll try that next time.

Thanks,
SG
 

SouthernGirl

New Member
onepraying said:
Hey ladies!

I have a question. Since I underprocessed, how long should I really wait until I touch up again? Someone suggested 4 weeks ATLEAST. However, my hair isn't completely straight and it isn't super curly, I guess kinda texturized. I may be able to go the whole 13 weeks(March 20), yet I'm a little afraid of breakage. Should I go ahead and touch up again at 4 wks and then again at 9 wks after that to get back on track? I'm trying to only relax 4x a year. This underprocess had me really shook at first. I'm in the grow out challenge and I just don't want anything freaky happening, especially if it is preventable.

Thanks alot!

HHG-


~op~

Hi OnePraying!

I would go ahead and give it 6 weeks since you're underprocessed. What brand of relaxer are you using by the way? Then, get back on track by doing them once a quarter. This is what I try to do, but since my hair is growing so fast, I've only been able to wait 3 months once or twice!! I guess that's a good problem to have though. I get way too much breakage extending 3 months w/that amount of growth.

Good luck,
SG
 
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